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Business & Tech

Bites Nearby: Parallax Restaurant and Lounge

An Asian-fusion restaurant and so much more.

Parallax is an Asian-fusion restaurant but with sushi and other grilled items, too, in the Tremont neighborhood of Cleveland.

The food is fresh and sophisticated; the flavors and textures are complementary and interesting; the aromas coming from the kitchen are instantly engaging.

It's décor is modern and streamlined. The color scheme is spa-like; in the lounge there is a full bar and a row of booths that looks slightly like  — dare I say it? — a super-chic diner. This clean-lined mod design has organic components that keep it in check: a wall of exposed weathered bricks, the breezy foliage outside the windows; the easygoing — yet very competent — servers; an un-contrived food-plating technique...

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Two parallel rows of tables line the lengths of two walls and an understated table bisecting the room cleverly serves as –what traditional restaurants would call "a wait station." Utensils, napkins, bottles of chilled water, large baskets of bread are all kept here at the finger-tips of the servers.

The tables are close-together, but your space is very much your own.

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The menus are handily kept on metal clip-boards, which can be a little unwieldy, because they contain six pages, so you're in for a long read– but the options are all so delicious.

The food is described briefly but accurately — though you may want to chalk up on your Asian ingredients beforehand, if you are unfamiliar with things like galangal, hoisin, ponzu.

The menu has some regional American components, too, like Striped Bass with Gazpacho Sauce or Blackened Redfish with Green Tomato Chow-Chow; Grilled Chicken Breast with Pommes Frites... the equilibrium featured in the décor is alive in the dishes, as well - sweet and spicy, crunchy and smooth, base and acid...

Crusty bread and olive oil are brought to the table with the drinks – there is a short list of fun cocktails on the table (the Parallax Hooch is made with jalapeno-infused tequila, so may be better when not trying to taste food; the Champagne Julep is cool, minty and refreshing on a hot night). Appetizers and salads range from $6 for Soup of the Day to $14.50 for Sashimi Salad with Rice Wine Vinaigrette and Wasabi Oil; Fish and Seafood plates range from $19 for the Shrimp Tempura, Sweet Corn Vinaigrette and Sticky Rice to $50 for the Tempura Lobster Tail and Vegetables, Ponzu Sauce and Spicy Mayo; Et Cetera ranges from Grilled Vegetables and Tofu, Chili-garlic-lime sauce and Sticky Rice for $17 to $23 for Grilled Hangar Steak, Scallion Mashed potatoes, Tempura Beans, Mustard Teriyaki Sauce. The dinner, sushi and lunch menus are all available on-line.

My husband has a fish allergy that rules out all trips to get sushi: Parallax has the best of both worlds. This expertly-prepared food has left me eager for more – I feel like there is so much more to explore here and apparently the owner, Zack Bruell, has three other restaurants, too (Chinato, Table 45 and L'Albatros)– I am greedily rubbing my hands together wondering where should I go next?

There is scant street parking, so the valet was totally worth the price (about $5); reservations are available via Open Table; credit cards are accepted.

Open:

Monday - Thursday  11:30am – 10pm
Friday  11:30am - midnight
Saturday  5pm - 11pm

2179 W. Eleventh St. Cleveland, OH 44113
216-583-9999

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